Homestead Kitchen
Goathland, North Yorkshire
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Best Local Restaurant: North East
The moorland village of Goathland is best known as ITV’s Heartbeat village of Aidensfield. Peter Neville arrived here from the Pheasant at Harome (where he was head chef/co-owner) to set up a restaurant and self-contained holiday annexe in an 18th-century former farmhouse and smithy with his partner Cecily Fearnley (Goathland is where she grew up). The restaurant seats 24 in two serene rooms with views across the garden to the moors beyond. The short menu showcases the best of Yorkshire produce, illustrated by a beautifully balanced dish of roast beetroot, salad leaves, candied walnuts and local Botton Dairy quark. But it's not just about local produce, Peter has a clear understanding of ingredients and composition. Smoked haddock from the nearby Yorkshire coast, for example, emerges in a delicate lasagne with a Jerusalem artichoke velouté – a thoughtfully constructed dish that is refined yet restrained. Add-ons to the three-course menu include glazed bread rolls with cultured butter strewn with mint and crispy lamb crumbs, and an opening snack of gougerès filled with Yorkshire’s Dale End Cheddar. There are inspirational pairings at dessert: a chocolate fondant with salted caramel sauce sits alongside a gorgeously aromatic pine ice cream, while Yorkshire cheese is expertly accompanied by heather-honey madeleines. Working alongside Neville is his long-time pal and head chef Peter Hall – they met 15 years ago while at the Star at Harome. Now the two Petes are reunited in a winning partnership.
