Hinnies

Whitley Bay, Tyne & Wear

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‘Geordie comfort food’ is the tagline at this seafront venue, and they’re not kidding. Belt-loosening portions of north-eastern home cooking are served with abundant good cheer, and readers are united in their praise. ‘Great value for money without any compromise on quality’ thought one, while others point to the ‘lovely welcoming service’. Hinnies (sibling to Dobson & Parnell and Blackfriars in Newcastle) is certainly a cut above the usual kiss-me-quick fish and chip joints. The café-like front area by the bar has smart wooden tables, an attractive rough-hewn wooden wall, and views (of a sort) across the road to the sea. Further back is a more sedate area with lower lighting and banquettes. A typical meal might start with caramelised red onion tart and goat's cheese mousse, or an intensely flavoured mushroom soup enlivened by a dribble of truffle oil. Pan haggerty, the classic Northumbrian hotchpotch, often makes an appearance among the mains, or you might choose a large bowlful of well-stewed beef casserole, served with pleasing mash, lightly cooked shredded cabbage and a 'cobbler' dumpling cooked to fork-challenging crispness. Puddings, too, are as comfy as a cosy couch: mulled fruit crumble, a wonderful wintry riff on the theme, comes with crunchy granola covering the stewed fruit and a scoop of ginger ice cream. Workmates out on a treat, lunching ladies and the odd tourist keep things convivial even in winter, while in summer a front terrace comes into play. Weekend brunch includes the aptly named ‘Hinnies belta’ full English. To drink, bottled ales (try Tyne Bank’s Northern Porter with the beef) make a worthwhile alternative to the varied choice of wines and cocktails, all served with northern geniality by bright young local staff. Canny!