Hearth
Hull, East Yorkshire
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Overlooking Trinity Square, opposite the Minster, this post-pandemic restaurant is by day a bakery, selling bread, pastries and light meals. Come evening, cocktails are taken on the ground floor while dinner is served upstairs in a pleasing room with country furniture and an open kitchen. The menu offers small and large plates, plus the chef’s ‘favourites’ (effectively a tasting menu) and a few blackboard specials. There’s plenty of choice across the board, from soothing ‘hand-rolled' cavatelli with courgettes and buffalo ricotta to a refreshing salmon tartare, wrapped in a prawn emulsion topped with tiny and delicate nori-flavoured crisps. You might also find a sobrasada Scotch egg accompanied by mustard sauce, and a knockout dish of lightly battered tempura kale served with a lively dipping sauce of gochujang emulsion. It turns out that the 'small plates' are not so small, so leave room for one of the larger items, some of which are cooked over coals: a juicy grilled pork chop with a scattering of sharp gooseberries, for example, or a Turkish adana kebab on a spicy tomato sauce and a puffy sourdough flatbread. Plant-based dishes and sides might include such lovely things as braised summer greens with sweet mustard and crisp garlic or mixed beetroot with feta and pumpkin seeds. Add a thoughtful, carefully curated wine list and you have a most agreeable restaurant – one that, in the words of a local fan, is ‘putting Hull back on foodie map’.
