Harbour Street Tapas

Whitstable, Kent

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Lee and Lucy Murray’s light-filled eatery is a simple enough room, urban-rustic, unpretentious, informal and welcoming, its tiny kitchen (levered in at the back) celebrating the pick of seasonal produce. Shane Martin is in charge of the cooking, and his short menu is a zesty assortment of ‘terrific’ Spanish-style tapas. The execution tends towards the simple with items such as grilled sardines dressed with lemon and garlic, delicate fried baby squid with anchovy aïoli, or tender octopus, lightly dusted with paprika, typical of the kitchen’s appealing output. Elsewhere, there could be a dish of chickpeas and spinach with golden raisins and pine nuts, classic tortilla, an impressive-looking honey and PX-glazed pork belly served with roasted red peppers, or grilled lamb cutlets with mint yoghurt and pomegranate. Look out for the good value daily special – even better value at a Thursday or Friday winter lunch when offered with a glass of house wine or beer. A slice of Basque cheesecake is an appropriate way to sign off. Prices are almost as pared back as the decor, even on the short list of mainly Spanish wines (a 125ml pour starts at £5). Booking is recommended.