Hanson at the Chelsea

Swansea - Modern European - Restaurant - ££

Indulgent cooking with a penchant for seafood

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

‘A staple of the Swansea area’ since 2007, Andrew Hanson’s characterful restaurant continues to please, and his cooking never gets old – thanks to a solid classical grounding, excellent local ingredients and a focus on unfettered indulgence. It’s a convivial setting, small, homely and comfortable, with banquette seating and coordinated blond-wood furniture. Typical starters play to the gallery with the likes of Swansea smoked salmon with crab and prawn blinis, goat’s cheese Chantilly with an assiette of beetroot or a handmade Gala-style pork pie embedded with a quail’s egg. The classics come out in full force for main courses, perhaps herb-crusted roast rack of Welsh lamb with a mini shepherd’s pie, tournedos of beef or oven-crisped confit duck with gratin dauphinoise, port sauce and glazed orange. Cornish seafood is the star of other dishes ranging from new season’s lobster with pommes frites to a ‘rendezvous of salmon&rsquo...

‘A staple of the Swansea area’ since 2007, Andrew Hanson’s characterful restaurant continues to please, and his cooking never gets old – thanks to a solid classical grounding, excellent local ingredients and a focus on unfettered indulgence. It’s a convivial setting, small, homely and comfortable, with banquette seating and coordinated blond-wood furniture. Typical starters play to the gallery with the likes of Swansea smoked salmon with crab and prawn blinis, goat’s cheese Chantilly with an assiette of beetroot or a handmade Gala-style pork pie embedded with a quail’s egg.

The classics come out in full force for main courses, perhaps herb-crusted roast rack of Welsh lamb with a mini shepherd’s pie, tournedos of beef or oven-crisped confit duck with gratin dauphinoise, port sauce and glazed orange. Cornish seafood is the star of other dishes ranging from new season’s lobster with pommes frites to a ‘rendezvous of salmon’ with roast scallop, king prawns and a cockle and clam herb butter sauce. There are also prime steaks and decent meat-free options – a porcini risotto, say, with avocado, wild mushrooms and crispy roots.

Desserts are a strength, whether you fancy a traditional syrup sponge pudding or a chocolate crémeux with a quenelle of white chocolate mousse. The taster menu is a ‘superb treat’ too. Wines favour the classics, with plenty of affordable options plus a few reliably good luxuries; the comprehensive whisky selection also comes highly recommended.

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