Grassington House
Grassington, North Yorkshire
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John and Sue Rudden’s capably refurbished Georgian residence is perfectly placed as a local asset, with Grassington’s cobbled square close by and the majestic Yorkshire Dales as a dramatic backdrop. More of a restaurant with rooms than a hotel, it feeds locals and tourists with equanimity, delivering modern bistro-style cooking based emphatically on regional ingredients. You can nibble from an informal gazing menu in the bar and terrace, but the serious action takes place in the elegant biscuit-brown dining room and a new private dining 'pod'. Yorkshire meat and game are the main contenders on the menu, from well-aged steaks with triple-cooked chips to seared lamb loin and slow-cooked breast accompanied by roast onion, broad beans and onion purée – also look out for the beef mignon served with a traditional suet ‘rag’ pudding (steamed in a cloth). Fish from the East Coast ports also has its say – cod with scallop and tiger prawn thermidor, for example. The cheeseboard always features some interesting local names, while desserts include jazzy ideas such as milk chocolate tart with salted peanut butter and popcorn ice cream. On Sundays, 14-hour slow-cooked rump of beef is the star attraction. The well-annotated wine list starts at £23.50.
