Grand Trunk Road
South Woodford, London
CONTINUE READING
Already a member? Log in here
Subscribe to our newsletter to gain access to limited free articles, reviews, news and our weekly newsletter.
The Good Food Guide Membership: Save £100s at Britain's best restaurants - try for free for 30 days
'Probably the best Indian restaurant for miles,' a reporter confidently declares of Rajesh Suri's south Asian venue in South Woodford. The menu takes its inspiration from the titular 16th-century trading route that passed through northern India on its way from Bangladesh to Afghanistan. There are modern tweaks to dishes, but nothing can disguise their age-old provenance. Tikki cakes of potato and peas with roasted sultanas, served with tamarind and ginger chutney, is one way in, while gram-floured fried tilapia in carom seeds with mint and coriander dressing makes an equally beguiling alternative. The tandoor turns out king prawns pasted in crushed garlic and chilli with red peppers and tomato, or chicken breast in honey and fenugreek, but the showstopping main course is the Lucknow roasted lamb shank prepared to an 18th-century recipe. Vegetarian mains of okra, cauliflower or baby aubergine are fragrant with spices and garlic, while saffron rice is the must-have accompaniment to anything. Finish with jamun dumplings and ice cream, or mango brûlée with ajwain biscuits. Fruity cocktails lead off a drinks list that includes a few wines by the glass from £5.75, with bottles of Chassagne-Montrachet and Barolo for trunk road high-rollers.
