George & Dragon
Penrith, Cumbria
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'Welcome back,' announces a board outside Charles Lowther's cream-fronted country-estate pub with rooms, signalling that the George & Dragon has finally recovered from the effects of a devastating fire in June 2022. Inside, tranquillity reigns, despite the presence of a mural depicting a haloed St George seeing off that dragon. Much of the produce comes from the Lowther Hall estate and kitchen gardens, giving a palpable sense of a community resource, and the place has another valuable asset in the shape of chef Gareth Webster, who worked previously in one of Simon Rogan's kitchens. The menu format is accessible and full of interest, depending on whether you want to eat lightly or pile right in. Small plates such as smoked sea trout, venison pastrami or delicious little lobster tacos with sweetcorn and a light salsa make an inspired intro, before pedigree meats and traditional seafood dishes take the stage. The fully laden fish pie is topped with Cheddar mash, while vegetarian mains might feature charred cauliflower steak with almond pesto, although the heart of the operation is revealed in a substantial serving of saddleback pork, topped with black pudding and crackling, accompanied by lightly blanched chard, roasted beetroot and an all-important jug of glossy gravy. Tarts and crumbles are the mainstays of the desserts: we enjoyed a fig tatin with sour apple chutney, thyme honey and a wedge of Blue Whinnow (a delicately veined cow's-milk cheese from Thornby Moor Dairy near Carlisle). An enterprising, fairly priced wine list has informative notes, with prominence given to bottles from artisanal, family-run estates.
