Galleria
St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex
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‘You feel you are in expert hands,' noted one visitor to Gianluca Tozzi and Jack Booth’s bright, airy seafood bar – a welcome alternative to St Leonards' many fish and chip shops. It is all very assured, attentive yet slightly formal, with a genuine sense of pride underlying everything that happens here. Starting with superb Italian and English ingredients, Puglian-born Tozzi sends out nicely balanced, clean-flavoured dishes with classical leanings, perhaps homemade gravadlax or fritto misto with lime and mustard mayo. Mains are equally strong, with some inventive touches – think fresh tuna linguine puttanesca, ‘very good’ John Dory with new potatoes, or turbot with caviar beurre blanc. Don't miss the oysters – an essential extra in this context, especially when the set lunch is such a steal. Vegetarians might eat first-rate burrata, then a broccoli and pecorino croquette with spicy tomato sauce or a mushroom and shallot tart. There are just a couple of puddings, perhaps a lemon and lime posset with shortbread or seasonal jam tart with soured cream. Favouring England, Italy and France, the wine list is well priced, with good choice under £30.
