Frog and Scot

Deal, Kent

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On a slate-grey winter's day, the bonhomie and good cooking on offer at Deal's neighbourhood bistro brightened our inspector’s day considerably. Occupying a plum spot in the heart of this vibrant seaside town, and having secured the loyal patronage of legions of locals, Frog and Scot is a thriving establishment. Proprietors Benoit and Sarah Dezecot (the eponymous ‘Frog’ and ‘Scot’) also run Le Pinardier wine shop and bar a few doors down and are in good company, with the famed Black Pig butcher around the corner serving as a regular supplier. A concise chalkboard selection of bistro classics – you can pretty much bet on steak and chips, or a terrine with homemade focaccia – share the billing with more refined seasonal treats. Kick off with raw seafood ceviche, crudo or tartare perhaps, then opt for a generous plate of gnudi with shallot purée, braised shallots, crispy kale and leek ash, a fine piece of fish, a risotto, or the aforementioned steak (ribeye with béarnaise sauce, say). Superlative desserts deserve a moment of glory too – especially the rich, creamy rice pudding with cherry compôte and caramel-sweet pistachio brittle (a recipe made famous by Chez L'Ami Jean in Paris). Comfy velveteen chairs invite you to linger (though in more clement times you might opt for the pavement seating) and a good-value set menu is available all week except Saturday nights. On the wine front, there's much to surprise and delight, with plenty by the glass, and bottles grouped helpfully into ‘house favourites’, ‘new funk and curiosities’, ‘classics and the old school’ and ‘off the beaten track’. Aperitifs and cocktails are equally compelling.