Forelles
Ludlow, Shropshire
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Views of Clee Hill and the Shropshire countryside add to the pleasure of eating at Forelles – a spacious conservatory dining room overlooking the gardens of Fishmore Hall. In the kitchen, former sous-chef Phil Kerry has been promoted to the top job, but little has changed as regards the cooking. Expect fancy-looking contemporary dishes highlighting produce from within a 30-mile radius of the hotel, with fish from British waters and a strong showing of vegetarian options. A three-course carte and lunchtime ‘market’ menus provide a snapshot of the repertoire, although feedback suggests that tasting menus are the way to go. Highlights from recent meals have included ‘perfectly seasoned’ Herefordshire beef with pomme purée, deliciously sweet onion, hazelnut and mushroom, as well as accurately cooked monkfish paired with smoked roe, miso, shiitake and squid ink. Menus are fleshed out with delightful canapés and tricksy pre-desserts – perhaps golden slices of poached peach, pink-peppercorn panna cotta and zingy Champagne sorbet (‘a perfect transition dish’). The short wine list does its job.
