Five Little Pigs

Wallingford, Oxfordshire

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An Hercule Poirot novel from Wallingford’s famous former resident, Agatha Christie, provides the name for this attractive town-centre bar-restaurant. Five Little Pigs was opened in 2021 by three local residents (two of whom also run a nearby gin bar) following a crowdfunding campaign, and it has maintained an enthusiastic following ever since. Local sourcing is important, with the owners setting the ambitious goal of procuring 70% of the menu from within a 15-mile radius. A suitably summery inspection meal kicked off with garlicky whipped goat’s curd thickly spread on crusty fresh bread with blobs of rhubarb compôte, fennel tops and a garnish of mint and chives. Even better was a dish of ox-cheek fritters, expertly deep-fried, tender and flavourful, served with sweet rhubarb pickle. Larger dishes from the all-day menu might range from ham hock broth with a poached Burford Brown egg (given a seasonal edge with vibrantly green broad beans, lovage leaves and Jersey Royal potatoes) to tender Cotswold kid ragù made creamy with local Witheridge hay-aged cheese. Freshly baked lemon and lavender cake, served with a zesty lemon-balm ice cream, could bring proceedings to a close. There's praise for the ‘friendly, engaged staff’ too. Even midweek, Wallingfordians come here to enjoy a convivial evening out, perhaps ordering a local keg beer, something from the ‘amazing array’ of cocktails or a glass of English fizz from the bar (spot the Christie-themed prints on the walls); otherwise, the courtyard is a big attraction on warmer days. In the words of one regular: 'An outstanding example of a truly local restaurant.’