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Fancett’s Bistro

Cambridgeshire, Cambridge - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

Excellent-value French bistro on Cambridge's lively Mill Road

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

You can eat your way round the world, it seems, on Mill Road, such is the diversity of independent restaurants, food shops, bars and cafés along this lively street. Flying the flag for – or at least inspired by – the French bistro is Fancett’s. It’s a warm-hearted spot for excellent, unfussy food and the sort of value for money that has kept people beating a path to its unassuming door ever since Dan Fancett opened the place in 2021. A set menu is tweaked daily and served in its simplest form at lunch (two choices per course) and with a few more options at dinner. It fits the bistro vibe, though the repertoire strays deliciously beyond predictability. Open a summer lunch with mackerel tartare accompanied by oyster mayo and a briny scattering of sea vegetables balanced by sweet pops of grape and bright pickled cucumber. Pork cutlet – beautifully, tenderly cooked – comes with charred broccoli, the chilli nudge of ‘nduja butter and a ...

You can eat your way round the world, it seems, on Mill Road, such is the diversity of independent restaurants, food shops, bars and cafés along this lively street. Flying the flag for – or at least inspired by – the French bistro is Fancett’s. It’s a warm-hearted spot for excellent, unfussy food and the sort of value for money that has kept people beating a path to its unassuming door ever since Dan Fancett opened the place in 2021.

A set menu is tweaked daily and served in its simplest form at lunch (two choices per course) and with a few more options at dinner. It fits the bistro vibe, though the repertoire strays deliciously beyond predictability. Open a summer lunch with mackerel tartare accompanied by oyster mayo and a briny scattering of sea vegetables balanced by sweet pops of grape and bright pickled cucumber. Pork cutlet – beautifully, tenderly cooked – comes with charred broccoli, the chilli nudge of ‘nduja butter and a smoky romesco sauce in a plate of satisfying layers of flavour.

There might also be battered pollack with vivid-green crushed peas and homemade tartare sauce – or come in the evening when the ambition is upped and you might find (for a small supplement) a fillet of wild bass on a pile of saffron orzo with crab, fennel and samphire. Finish perhaps with cherry clafoutis – we’re in bistro territory, remember – or apricot frangipane tart.

Restaurant manager Theo Armyras is an engaging enthusiast of all things drinkable; he steered us towards a delicious Spanish rosado from Rioja’s family-owned Bodegas Perica (at £10 a glass). Selections by the 500ml carafe keep proceedings true to bistro-dom, but there’s plenty to explore, from minerally Chablis Premier Cru, Thomas Labille ‘Montmains’ 2020 to big hitters from Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley.

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S Keynton

20 March 2025

We decided to wander along Mill Road, as we had not done this before, to find somewhere to go for lunch. We had heard about Fancett’s Bistro and when we looked at the menu we thought we would give it a try. It was only...
We decided to wander along Mill Road, as we had not done this before, to find somewhere to go for lunch. We had heard about Fancett’s Bistro and when we looked at the menu we thought we would give it a try. It was only just after 12 noon but we were lucky to get a table because every other table was booked.

There was a warm welcome and we ordered drinks and looked at the menu. From this short set menu we both ordered the same. We had Pork Rillete on sourdough toast with cornichons...
We decided to wander along Mill Road, as we had not done this before, to find somewhere to go for lunch. We had heard about Fancett’s Bistro and when we looked at the menu we thought we would give it a try. It was only just after 12 noon but we were lucky to get a table because every other table was booked.

There was a warm welcome and we ordered drinks and looked at the menu. From this short set menu we both ordered the same. We had Pork Rillete on sourdough toast with cornichons and mustard frills which was very good, crispy and well seasoned. To follow we both had the Double baked cave aged cheddar and Gruyère soufflé with melted leeks and flaked smoked haddock. The soufflé was risen well, soft and very tasty with the leeks and beautiful smoked haddock and buttery juices adding to a great tasting experience.

Dessert and cheese followed.One chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream and one Delice de Bourgogne with truffle honey and crackers. We shared these between us. Both very good.

For drinks we had 1 Botivo and soda, 1 Carafe of Lavi Carricante plus 1 extra 175ml glass. and 2 coffees.
The set 3 course lunch was £36
Wine £32+£11.50 and coffee £5 each. Botivo £9
Total bill £134.50 including service.

We really enjoyed our lunch and we will definitely go back. It was good to find somewhere new that we had not been before. We did not realise it was in the GFG. Next time we will book and claim our Members Perk.
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VENUE DETAILS

96a Mill Road
Cambridge
Cambridgeshire
CB1 2BDGB

01223 354093

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Wheelchair access, Credit card required

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