Eline
Hackney, London
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If you've not been to this part of town for a while, you'll notice there's been a glow-up in the neighbourhood with lots of swanky new developments. Under one such new build you'll find Eline, a bistro and wine shop opened by a husband-and-wife team – Alex Reynolds (ex-Hide) and Maria Viviani (ex-owner of the popular bakery Pophams). It's the sort of restaurant that makes you feel relaxed the minute you step inside, helped along by soft lighting, Scandi-inspired pale wood furnishings, green and white tiled flooring, latte-coloured walls (one covered with vintage books) and a cushion-strewn banquette – all ably overseen by cordial staff. And the food? There's broad appeal on the short seasonal menu, which is now bolstered by six-course taster. Give the owner's reputation for baking, we kicked off with some noteworthy sourdough before moving on to a silky-smooth snack of whipped chicken parfait, served with a grape and pear chutney. The cooking is direct, the kitchen takes care with its produce and quantities are well judged – as in a ballotine of Vendée quail served with quince, burnt tenderstem broccoli and crushed turnips or pan-fried gurnard accompanied by asparagus, grains and squid croquettes. But there were small missteps too, notably oversalting. However, a buttery and crumbly almond financier with rhubarb compôte and Chantilly cream made a terrific finale. The Euro-centric wine list has been carefully assembled, with natural, skin-contact and low-intervention bottles helping to broaden expectations. Sensible pricing (with plenty around the £30 mark) is another plus.
