El Gato Negro Manchester
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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The triple-decker delights of the original 'black cat' seem almost quaint given chef-patron Simon Shaw's subsequent adventures (two more El Gatos, plus Med-inspired Canto and Middle-Eastern Habas, both elsewhere in Manchester). But King Street's top-floor terrace, open kitchen on the middle floor and darkling street-level tapas bar offer both a whisper of glamour and a reliable hand in the kitchen; years of in-house experience with solid Spanish ingredients pays off handsomely on the plate. Charcuterie boards are all killer, no filler, with sweet notes from honey and quince jam, while tapas are characterised by rich saucing and plenty of punch – try smoky grilled lamb skewers with both butter bean houmous and harissa yoghurt, or asparagus with intense romesco sauce and Idiazabal cheese. For zing, look to octopus with new potatoes, capers and shallots, plus a glass of white Rioja from the Iberian-led wine list. For afters, sticky toffee cake is a seriously sweet proposition, or you could go for baked vanilla cheeesecake with Biscoff sauce. Amiable service can be administered in Spanish, if required.
