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Docket

Shropshire, Whitchurch - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

While the monochrome understatement of this high-street venue makes it look perfectly unassuming, Docket is clearly a restaurant with vaulting ambition. Stuart and Frances Collins opened the place in 2017 and set about putting the north Shropshire market town of Whitchurch on the gastronomic map. One glance at Stuart’s culinary CV serves notice that he has talent and experience to burn, and there is evidence of sound but imaginative culinary energy in virtually every dish on his resourceful tasting menus. The separate serving of canapés, one after the other, would lose nothing through their amalgamation onto one plate, but every bite wants its own moment in the spotlight. A thought-provoking combination of toasted buckwheat, Madeira jelly, truffled confit white asparagus and intense yet light-textured Parmesan ice cream is full of booming umami savouriness. Collins has a confident way with complexity: a verdant green soup of clam stock and leek tops contains dainty cavatel...

While the monochrome understatement of this high-street venue makes it look perfectly unassuming, Docket is clearly a restaurant with vaulting ambition. Stuart and Frances Collins opened the place in 2017 and set about putting the north Shropshire market town of Whitchurch on the gastronomic map. One glance at Stuart’s culinary CV serves notice that he has talent and experience to burn, and there is evidence of sound but imaginative culinary energy in virtually every dish on his resourceful tasting menus. The separate serving of canapés, one after the other, would lose nothing through their amalgamation onto one plate, but every bite wants its own moment in the spotlight. A thought-provoking combination of toasted buckwheat, Madeira jelly, truffled confit white asparagus and intense yet light-textured Parmesan ice cream is full of booming umami savouriness. Collins has a confident way with complexity: a verdant green soup of clam stock and leek tops contains dainty cavatelli, slices of poached salsify and spears of wild green asparagus, on top of which sit three nuggets of poached halibut, each garnished with a slice of golden beetroot. The south Asian approach to quail sees the breast roasted in a light spiced crust, while the leg is given the confit treatment then deep-fried in a pudgy pakora batter to look almost like a corn dog; a wedge of braised kohlrabi and a quenelle of yellow dhal crammed with crackly coriander seeds complete the plate. Sweet things demonstrate flawless technique as much as the desire to beguile: a pre-dessert of rhubarb and custard parfait is impaled on a lolly-stick, as a prelude to a properly delightful chocolate délice with a cumin tuile and comfortingly lactic yoghurt sorbet. With an excellent cheese plate at a £10 supplement, and an assured touch with the wine pairings from a venturesome and well-constructed list, there is plenty to celebrate – and the enjoyment factor remains high. 'This is food served not by distant experts,' declared an inspector, 'but by people who are as interested and unpretentious as their guests.'

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VENUE DETAILS

33 High Street
Whitchurch
Shropshire
SY13 1AZGB

01948 665553

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Credit card required

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