Crab House Café
Wyke Regis, Dorset
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The prospect of chilling beachside under cover, with the bracing expanses of Chesil Beach stretching out in the distance, is an irresistible draw for visitors to this cheery wooden shack – especially when there are plates of ozone-fresh seafood on offer. Oysters from the owners’ beds across the water are always in demand, although Portland brown crabs are the undoubted stars of the show – a hammer and dissecting tools are provided for those who fancy getting messy. The menu is an ever-changing roster of piscine freshness, although dishes depend on the day's haul from the local boats. Staples such as fish pie with saffron mash or roast skate wing with paprika, spring onion and chorizo could be joined by specials including tandoori-style marinated ling or Arctic char fillet with monk’s beard, pink grapefruit and tarragon butter sauce. There are even a few desserts to choose from – warm Dorset apple cake is a no-brainer, given the locality. To drink, pick a fish-friendly white from the well-chosen wine list. Expect crowds even when the weather’s lousy.
