Cora Pearl
Covent Garden, London
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Kitty Fisher’s little sister plies her trade in Covent Garden’s theatreland rather than Shepherd Market. Both are named after 19th-century courtesans, but Cora Pearl feels more 'decadent' with lush velvety fabrics, dark green tones and dark varnished woodwork creating an inviting backdrop for plates of comforting food with strong Anglo-European leanings. Full of soothing richness, cod’s roe crumpets and a riff on a ham and cheese toastie are perfect, although you can also get serious with a grown-up plate of asparagus and sauce gribiche followed by pork belly with apricot and parsley or sea bream with aubergine and samphire. If you’re hoping for at least one showstopper, look no further than the best-in-class chips. Hot, crisp, fatty and deliriously moreish, they are cooked and pressed for 24 hours before being cut into Jenga-like oblongs and dunked in the deep-fryer. To conclude, you might opt for the pâtés de fruits, although a creamy bowl of ‘milk and cookies’ is the go-to option. To drink, Bloody Marys seem to suit the mood, and there’s also a short list of European wines from £29.
