Coombeshead Farm
Lewannick, Cornwall
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Coombeshead is a working, developing farm with owner Tom Adams making new decisions all the time about what livestock to keep, what to grow that will best suit the soils, and how to present the bounty of the land to its best advantage. The accommodation aspect of the business is a principal attraction (not least for the excellent breakfasts) but a three-course menu at £45 for lunch or dinner is well worth a detour. Proceedings open with the famously good bread served with sunny-yellow farmhouse butter before a starter of Mangalitza terrine or a simple preparation of just-picked vegetables. Main courses could be a hefty leg of guinea fowl, served with stewed tomato and string beans, plus dressed salad leaves. Our inspector's dessert – a perfectly rendered frangipane tart of haskap berries with clotted cream – felt like the best kind of farmhouse cooking. As for wine, it's a matter of browsing the cellars for yourself and picking out something suitable. If you've arrived hot-foot from far afield, take a long, meandering wander around the fields. Smell the wild garlic. Look at the chickens and the piglets. Relax.
