Coast
Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire
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Right on the beach with views all the way to Worm’s Head on a clear day, Coast makes the most of its elemental surroundings with decking for fair-weather dining, extravagant floor-to-ceiling windows, and cleverly placed mirrors for anyone with their back to the view. Shades of apple green, indoor trees and wood flooring add to the natural vibe, although it feels sleek and decidedly upmarket, with polished, bells-and-whistles service to match. Fred Clapperton's carte and seven-course tasting menu draw on the local larder, from seafood and sea vegetables to lamb, cheese, herbs and wildflowers. Special mention goes to ‘today’s and yesterday’s bread’, which, as well as offering perfectly fluffy, crusty, fresh warm slices, includes the previous day’s offerings cooked in beef dripping, with thyme curd, crispy shallot, pickled walnut gel and beef consommé – 'the best thing that anyone has ever done with leftover bread,' commented one reader. The highlight of a summer tasting menu was 'a faultless ensemble' of monkfish with Welsh Black Bomber Cheddar sauce, a sliver of pickle, meaty little shrimps, foraged sea aster, purslane and 'salty fingers' – plus a masterful sprinkling of crispy burnt Cheddar bits. Flavour balance is on-point throughout: in a tender piece of beef with juicy barbecued hispi, wafer-thin ox tongue and an umami-rich anchovy purée; in a plump chunk of lightly poached salmon with a Pembrokeshire oyster, rich oyster sauce, borage leaf and flower; and in lamb breast with deep, homely potato-skin dashi, ewe’s curd and emerald-bright peas. Textures are handled skilfully too – not least in a 'sensational' dessert of juicy roasted, fresh and pickled strawberries with elderflower gel, strawberry sorbet and clotted cream. plus a deconstructed cheesecake – a lashing of creamy-cheesy comfort with a sprinkling of granola oats and pumpkin seeds in the place of a biscuit base. The wine list emphasises progressive, sustainable producers from the UK, Europe and the New World, with plenty of choice for every pocket.
