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Chez Bruce

London, Wandsworth - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

Hyper-seasonal Franco-British food with a classical feel

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Exceptional

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Fast approaching its 30th anniversary, Chez Bruce still has the Wandsworth wind in its sails. As a neighbourhood grandee, it's true testament to Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts-Martin's conception that a restaurant should be a place of resort for those who love to dine well, rather than an excuse to massage the egos of celebrities – either out front or in the kitchen. With its expansive views over the Common, the cream-toned dining room is light and uplifting, with linened tables and service that is all about courteous professionalism. It is, par excellence, a place for unhurried lunches. Matt Christmas has been at the stoves for a sizeable chunk of his career, resulting in a formidable level of consistency and a commitment to excelling that doesn't waver. The daily changing menu, viewed through one prism, could be characterised as the best of modern European bistro cooking, with plenty of choice and plenty going on in each dish. A starter of braised and crisped lambs' tongues...

Fast approaching its 30th anniversary, Chez Bruce still has the Wandsworth wind in its sails. As a neighbourhood grandee, it's true testament to Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts-Martin's conception that a restaurant should be a place of resort for those who love to dine well, rather than an excuse to massage the egos of celebrities – either out front or in the kitchen. With its expansive views over the Common, the cream-toned dining room is light and uplifting, with linened tables and service that is all about courteous professionalism. It is, par excellence, a place for unhurried lunches.

Matt Christmas has been at the stoves for a sizeable chunk of his career, resulting in a formidable level of consistency and a commitment to excelling that doesn't waver. The daily changing menu, viewed through one prism, could be characterised as the best of modern European bistro cooking, with plenty of choice and plenty going on in each dish. A starter of braised and crisped lambs' tongues comes with tomato and pepper couscous, a heap of properly smoky baba ganoush, a little creamy labneh, silky garlic pesto, and a scattering of crunchy shallot – the Levantine world on a plate.

Pasta never subsides into the starchy humdrum, witness duck ragù and morteau sausage with pudgy little cavatelli under a pangrattato top. Fish cooking might take inspiration from India (tandoori sea bream partnered with curried smoked haddock and a potato samosa, dressed in almonds, lemon and coriander, say), while the French country tradition is celebrated in flawless blanquette de veau with a sweetbread raviolo and veal sausage in a satiny sauce sprinkled with chervil. Nor do desserts repine into the standard double-act; instead, there might be poached pear with hazelnut meringue, caramel cream, caramel ice cream and chocolate sauce – a Belle Hélène that's been to finishing school.

The cheese platter is fully worth the supplement for the breadth of choice, the quality crackers and the membrillo. On the drinks front, an expertly curated modern wine selection does an agile job of satisfying novelty-hungry imbibers as well as traditionalists, with a selection of small glasses from £8.50.

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VENUE DETAILS

2 Bellevue Road
Wandsworth
SW17 7EGGB

020 8672 0114

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, No background music, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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