Chapter
Birmingham, West Midlands
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Playing its part in a rebooted neighbourhood, Chapter is serious about affordability and quality, which is a boon for the locals. Set in a pedestrianised street of Victorian terraced houses that have been minimally converted or integrated with newer buildings to form part of Edgbaston Village, it’s every inch the modern eatery, flooded with light with well-spaced functional furniture and an open-plan kitchen. Ann Tonks, Irene Allan and Ben Ternent are the folk behind the late-lamented Opus, but their new offering is more multi-functional and open all day: you can drop in for breakfast, a cup of coffee, bar snacks or come for the full drill of lunch and dinner. The contemporary bistro-style menu deals in crowd-pleasers such as ham hock with celeriac rémoulade, seared salmon with fennel orzo, roasted baby fennel and lime/chilli dressing, or Cotswold chicken breast with truffled pomme purée, crispy chicken skin granola, mushroom and Madiera jus. Steaks are good, whether rump cap or fillet, accompanied by peppercorn sauce, confit tomato, crispy onions and fries, while a silky crème brûlée with a hidden cherry compote and a good crisp top is a typical dessert. Cocktails and a beer-list focused on Birmingham (but with plenty from further afield) compete with a wine list that roams from Slovenia to South Africa via Sussex fizz.
