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Chapter One

Kent, Locksbottom - Modern European - Restaurant - £££

Long-serving suburban destination

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

Located behind a handsome mock-Tudor façade on a busy road in Kent’s commuter belt, Andrew McLeish’s tastefully extended flagship is famously known for its diner-friendly pricing, dutiful professionalism and high levels of consistency (one correspondent, returning after a 20-year absence, found the place as impressive as ever). The spacious restaurant’s timeless decor is pointed up with lots of sophisticated trappings, while service is slick, friendly and attentive to a fault. Strong European influences are spread across the carte, which spans everything from warm jugged hare with horseradish espuma, puffed rice and hare satay to classic roast chicken with crisp Anna potato, creamed chestnut mushroom and chicken jus. We have also been impressed by the quality of the pared-back menu du jour, which offers well-crafted, seasonally inclined dishes inspired by McLeish’s culinary heritage. Fish is top drawer, from supremely fresh grilled mackerel on toasted so...

Located behind a handsome mock-Tudor façade on a busy road in Kent’s commuter belt, Andrew McLeish’s tastefully extended flagship is famously known for its diner-friendly pricing, dutiful professionalism and high levels of consistency (one correspondent, returning after a 20-year absence, found the place as impressive as ever). The spacious restaurant’s timeless decor is pointed up with lots of sophisticated trappings, while service is slick, friendly and attentive to a fault. Strong European influences are spread across the carte, which spans everything from warm jugged hare with horseradish espuma, puffed rice and hare satay to classic roast chicken with crisp Anna potato, creamed chestnut mushroom and chicken jus.

We have also been impressed by the quality of the pared-back menu du jour, which offers well-crafted, seasonally inclined dishes inspired by McLeish’s culinary heritage. Fish is top drawer, from supremely fresh grilled mackerel on toasted sourdough with punchy tzatziki dressing to pan-fried, crisp-skinned sea bream served alongside crushed new potatoes, samphire and warm tartare sauce. However, the highlight of a recent visit was a serving of locally sourced venison transformed into a petite domed pithivier – a masterclass of culinary technique presented atop a silky-smooth potato purée with added punch from a rich, decadent venison jus. Desserts look to the old school for the likes of Black Forest gâteau with cherry sorbet, iced Armagnac parfait with plump macerated prunes or a perfectly light caramelised apple mousse served alongside a tangy apple sorbet.

You could also dine in the more informal Brasserie (pasta, pies and prime cuts from the Mibrasa charcoal oven) or partake of a skilfully mixed cocktail in the intimate Bar/Terrace area. The expansive wine list offers youthful Kentish bottles, top-flight Old World aristocrats and a smattering of New World contenders, with a terrific range by the glass.

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VENUE DETAILS

Farnborough Common
Locksbottom
Kent
BR6 8NFGB

01689 854848

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OTHER INFORMATION

Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Credit card required

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