Caper and Cure

Bristol

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It may occupy a converted chemist's shop on a rapidly gentrifying corner of Stokes Croft, but don't let Caper and Cure's relaxed atmosphere fool you – there is some serious cooking going on here. Seriously delicious, that is. Formerly the Arts House, and still under the same management, the new incarnation has been praised for its 'warm and welcoming' atmosphere and 'cosy but stylish' shabby-chic decor, with closely packed tables and a tiny open kitchen at the back. There's praise too for the 'excellent and ever-changing' wine list, which knowledgeable staff will gladly help you navigate – although you can't go far wrong with the superb-value house pours. A visit here 'has never failed to lift my mood' reports one happy fan. To begin, the generous bread with jamón butter (listed as a pre-starter snack) is so moreish you will want yet another little taste alongside your main courses. Moving on, an enormous, soothing emulsion of warm crabmeat, soft herbs and melted butter (a standout) is prettily served in a shell with more sourdough for dipping. Alternatively, a salad of sweet, juicy Isle of Wight tomatoes with shreds of burrata and a punchy tapenade cleanses the palate beautifully. Mains could include a perfectly cooked onglet steak, with a gentle anchovy cream, Caesar-dressed green beans and fries or perhaps melt-in-the-mouth gnocchi parisienne, made from fried choux pastry and served with wilted spinach, cherry tomatoes and an artfully gentle Cashel Blue cheese sauce. Desserts don't shine quite as brightly as the savoury courses, but if your sweet tooth must be satisfied, a honey and vanilla panna cotta with strawberries and hazelnuts should do the trick.