Cannonball

Edinburgh, Lothians

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‘You can’t beat the location, right under the Castle entrance on the Royal Mile,’ noted one visitor eager to sample Edinburgh’s touristy charms at this restaurant owned by the city’s redoubtable Contini family – there’s even a whisky bar next door for those who fancy a dram or two. An old cannonball lodged in the outer wall of the premises gives the place its name and you can even sample local haggis ‘cannonballs’ (with pickled turnips and Glengoyne whisky cream) for that extra ‘och aye’. But that’s where the frivolous clichés end. This venue is serious about Scottish produce and knows how to handle it with aplomb, serving rump of Borders lamb with garlic cream, sautéed Phantassie leeks and a wild mushroom and horseradish rösti, for example. Elsewhere, grilled Peterhead plaice comes with wilted chard and Shetland mussel broth, while saddle of red deer is partnered by salt-baked celeriac purée and red onion chutney. Cheeses are true Scottish patriots, and desserts offer comfort in the shape of crème caramel or warm walnut tart with malt cream and orange syrup. Service hits its mark, as does the short, sharp wine list, which kicks off with organic house selections from Spain (£25).