Burnt Truffle
Heswall, Merseyside
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The Gary Usher stable goes from strength to strength, as this Wirral thoroughbred shows. Contemporary bistro food with a dress-down approach and a summer terrace to boot is the drill, and from the first appetiser plate of Cádiz anchovies in chilli flakes and 'very nice' olive oil (to quote the menu), it's clear the kitchen means business. The main menu deals in what could be simple crowd-pleasers – burrata, gazpacho, chicken liver pâté – that soon achieve lift-off in their presentations. That gazpacho, for example, incorporates smoked bacon and toasted nori, and is accompanied by garlic and parsley toast. Mains include tempting vegetable-based dishes, such as roasted summer squash with coconut and red lentil dhal, broad bean and green tomato pickle and a bhaji, but also tenderly braised featherblade with the now-ubiquitous truffled Parmesan chips – or cod with taramasalata, walnuts and smoked apple/dill dressing. Desserts are more about chocolate, caramel and toffee than fruit, but the summer menu did manage a strawberry pavlova with minted melon sorbet. Standard glasses of wine start at £6, and there's a handful of classic cocktails too.
