Brigadiers

City, London

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Part of Bloomberg Arcade's 'dining boulevard', this slick production from the JKS group (Hoppers, Gymkhana, Trishna etc) is part barbecue joint, part sports bar, part drinking den. Inspired by the Indian army’s old mess bars, it comprises a warren of rooms with the theming turned up to 11 – check out the faux leopard-print carpets, the monkey lamps and the staff in military-style waistcoats embroidered with peacock motifs. Live sport (especially IPL cricket) is beamed out on big screens, and the entertainment extends to pool tables, fast-pour self-serve beer taps and even a whisky vending machine. If you’re here for food, dip into a menu that covers all the Subcontinental bases: ‘beer snacks’, high-ranking grilled ribs and chops, paos and more besides. Ingredients and sourcing are taken seriously here, so expect samosas stuffed with goat belly vindaloo, kati rolls with wagyu beef, sizzling guinea fowl kebabs and wood-roasted sea bream pollichathu. Elsewhere, the posh beef shin and bone-marrow biryani is well worth a punt. Ample support is provided by the ‘bread basket’, veggie sides, chutneys and so on, while desserts bring coconut kulfi with wood-roasted pineapple or gulab jamun with masala chai crème brûlée. Exotic cocktails and a wide-ranging global wine list complete a terrific City offer.