Bowley's at The Plough
Trottiscliffe, Kent
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‘Overall, the view of our party was immensely favourable for the enterprise and initiative to set up such a lovely restaurant in the gastronomic desert which is most of west Kent, where chains are rampant in the major towns’ – a typically straightforward response to this ancient brick-and-weatherboarded pub below the North Downs. Rescued from property developers by the community, the Plough certainly manages to combine its dual role as a hostelry and upscale eatery with agility, offering real ales to locals in the bar, while the small dining room makes a congenial setting for food that’s more country restaurant than local boozer. Here you can enjoy a good-value three-course set menu or choose from a brief carte along with an international wine list that shows restraint as to price and range. Chef Alex Yates celebrates the abundant Kentish larder, delivering, at one spring meal, excellent wild garlic houmous with focaccia, followed by roast guinea fowl with asparagus, artichoke and baby leeks. Sunday lunch is popular and there’s a small, outside terrace area for drinks when the weather cooperates.
