Bouchon Bistrot
Hexham, Northumberland
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'With French music on the playlist, Art Nouveau posters on the wall and attentive Gallic service, you could almost imagine yourself in a small French town.' Result! Even if the menu writing hovers indeterminately between French and English, Nicolas Kleist's cooking knows where its heart is – and heart is very much the key concept. These are dishes designed to remind you why nostalgia needn't be a matter of the past, not when envelopingly rich Comté cheese soufflé or chicken liver parfait with cornichons and onion compote show the way. Main courses are pure bistro in their orientation, with crisp-skinned stone bass amid a good-natured crowd of chickpeas, samphire and pesto, or confit duck leg with dauphinoise, a little bundle of green beans neatly tied up in bacon, and a rollicking red wine sauce. One summer visitor found it a formula that very much suits Hexham ('if we were locals, I'm sure we'd be regulars'), even if things trailed off a little come dessert. Ice-cream profiteroles were fine, 'but nothing to shout about from the rooftops – which was a pity, as we were invited to have our desserts on the new roof terrace'. That said, an excellent tarte tatin (served in its pan) is definitely worth the climb. An efficient, French-led wine list has house Duboeuf at £5.50 a glass.
