Botanic Road Kitchen
Southport, Merseyside
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At one end of a terrace in Southport's venerable Churchtown district, not far from the Botanic Gardens, the handsome-looking eatery is a small-plates venue run with appreciable gusto and charm. To judge by the number of walk-ins being turned ruefully away on our midweek visit, the place already has quite the following. Among the on-trend dishes have been crisply tempura-coated tenderstem broccoli dressed effulgently in lime juice, maple syrup, sesame oil and soy. Crunchy textures are a favourite device, as with the cauliflower beignets that deliver plenty of snap. Pizzetta topped with chèvre and caramelised onions is a moreish morsel, while contemporary classics such as roasted scallops on pea purée, black pudding fritters with truffled hazelnut pesto or dreamy burrata with crisp-fried shallots, fennel and basil offer forthright, satisfying flavours. Desserts go more mainstream for creditable versions of Eton mess and crème brûlée. The wine list is a short and practical selection that copes well with the food.
