Bistrot Vérité

Southport, Merseyside

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Newly expanded into next-door premises, where a separate bar now supplements the outdoor tables, Bistrot Vérité has long been the smartest kid on the Birkdale block. Its foundation is Franco-Lancastrian bistro cooking, with the accent on substance and generosity. Black pudding croquettes on celeriac rémoulade might set the ball rolling, ahead of a big hunk of hollandaise-napped halibut or tenderly pink collops of lamb rump on crushed peas. Finish with a honeycomb ice-cream sundae – or the poshest of trifles, made with rhubarb and blood orange. A few wines by the glass underpin a list of vinous essentials.