Bingham Riverhouse
Richmond, London
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*Following Steven Edwards departure at the end of December 2023, the Bingham Riverhouse has relaunched with South African celeb chef Vanessa Marx at the helm. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
'More destination than a place to stop for a bite,' this bijou restaurant is housed in a boutique hotel with good Georgian bones. The dining room, comfortable without being overformal, is an attractive proposition, but the real draw is the food: 'It's the best iteration of this venue since I've been coming here – some 15 years,' noted one regular. Overseeing the kitchen is former MasterChef: The Professionals winner, Steven Edwards, and there’s an excitement and energy to his cooking. The menu is fixed-price, with up to five courses on offer, but the wise would settle for the two- or three-course option. There are so many little extras that unsuspecting newcomers might be overwhelmed: a Parmesan biscuit (‘delish’), a truffle choux bun (‘impressive’), a mini beetroot soup with horseradish ice cream, and a Marmite brioche with seaweed butter all arrive before the first course. At inspection, this was a ‘clever and ambitious’ dippy egg (something of a signature dish), which delivered a perfect soft duck yolk on a bed of broccoli purée, covered with slivers of nasturtium leaves and crispy smoked duck crumbs, plus an oversized brioche 'soldier' fried in duck fat. Main courses are less showy, but pork belly served with courgettes (puréed, pickled, grilled) on a black garlic sauce with a perky pork scratching on the top, showed skill and innovation aplenty. Those opting for the longer menu might flounder before dessert, which would be a shame because they are pretty, seasonal and impressively executed (try the poached William pear with coriander ice cream and local honey). Wine pairings are offered, and the sommelier is eager to take diners on a global journey of vinous curiosities – although he is just as happy to serve a beer or cocktail from the bar.
