Belzan
Liverpool, Merseyside
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The team that owns Belzan has the uncanny knack of knowing exactly what people want to eat. Menus at what is now a confirmed fixture of Liverpool's Wavertree district reflect the explorations of enterprising travellers, and the pared-back, casual mood suits punters to a tee. It's the kind of approach that lifts dishes out of their humble backgrounds, so that plates of braised butter beans or roasted courgettes with gremolata and romesco feel like the last word in dining out. Mains might include bavette steak done on the wood-fired BBQ, or you could bring the seaside into middle-distance view with a hearty clam and mussel broth; you might even get a toehold in the posh with guinea fowl and creamed Jersey Royals. The Tunworth cheese plate is reliably popular, while seasonal fruits inform the sweet options – strawberries and cream in a broiling July, served with Italian meringue and buckwheat. Greens from the Belzan allotment virtuously adorn the Sunday roasts. Orange wines and Italian 'pét-nats', together with today's hot varietals – Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, Malbec – show that Belzan's wine-buying isn't stuck in the past.
