Beckford Canteen
Bath, Somerset
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* Head chef George Barson is leaving in early March 2024. Watch for news of his replacement.*
With its high vaulted ceiling and wall of windows, this converted Georgian greenhouse in the heart of Bath is full of light and feels as fresh as spring. Dark wood flooring, tables and chairs give way to clean white walls, accented with forest-green tiles and an entire wall of pretty decorative plates. George Barson, formerly chef-director of London's Kitty Fisher and Cora Pearl, heads up the kitchen, his locally sourced dishes making excellent use of seasonal ingredients. Our early spring visit saw wild garlic combined with chives in a zesty mayonnaise slathered between pyramids of trout roe and fat panisse (chickpea) chips in a delightful pre-starter snack; its wilted leaves also embellished a main course of pork loin with black garlic and onion (grilled and puréed). To conclude, rhubarb appeared on the dessert menu as a refreshing and tangy sorbet with tiny poached cubes adding a satisfying texture. Other highlights ranged from a mini rarebit crumpet that oozed with deeply cheesy sauce (given a delicious tang with pickled onion) to a side of purple sprouting broccoli, cooked perfectly al dente and dressed with lemon zest, olive oil and fennel – an absolute delight. Service was faultless – warm, engaging and spot-on when answering our questions about the dishes. The short, reasonably priced wine list leans towards the Old World and provided one reader with a 'lovely wine discovery'; every bottle is available by the glass and 500ml carafe.
