Baratxuri
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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With smouldering embers under one arm and a Galician dairy cow under the other, Baratxuri's move from Ramsbottom to Manchester brings Basque fire cookery to the city. Mill country's loss is Peter Street's gain, although the new setting, provided by the cavernous and loud Exhibition food hall, inevitably lacks the intimacy of the original. Central seating at chunky benches, high ceilings and security on the door all feel a long way from 'Rammy'. But, as one of three kitchens lining the margins of the room, Baraxturi stakes its claim with hot, hot heat – and plenty of it. From the fiery embers appear a parade of charred goodies: the well-loved giant txuleton steak, served blue with fire-roasted new potatoes and a tomato salad; immaculate whole wild sea bass with salsa verde; and a handsome skewer of charred vegetables in a state of sweetly smoky collapse. Short rib, braised then charred and served with pomegranate molasses and garlicky chickpea purée, is the standout, simultaneously carvable and spoonable with a deep, rich savour. All the bits, from fudgy tortilla and classy charcuterie to sourdough with romesco sauce for dipping, are present and correct, but if you don't see pudding on the list, ask – the Basque cheesecake with caramelised sultanas is a gorgeous example. The drinks list operates across the space, but staff know it well enough; wines are mainly organic and sustainable, if not exclusively Spanish.
