Aven
Lancashire, Preston - Modern British - Restaurant - ££
Contemporary fine dining comes to Preston
While Lancashire has long since ensconced itself on the northern culinary map, its administrative centre (a full-fledged city for over 20 years, after all) has awaited its moment in the spotlight. Step forward Aven, which opened in an odd backstreet site in the vicinity of its near-namesake Avenham Park in October 2023. Under the eagle executive eye of Lancashire-born chef-director Oli Martin (ex-Northcote et al), this city-centre venue is a tiny room (seven tables) done out in impeccable decorative style, with dark olive panelling offsetting brilliant white door frames, glass panels partitioning the space, and menus presented in little envelopes bearing the name of the booking. Set four-course menus are the mainstay, with an evening taster adding another two courses, as well as a vegetarian alternative. An opening soup of fermented mushrooms is piled with diced Jersey Royals, maitake, peas, braised radishes and bites of smoked eel, under ruffles of tasty chicken skin. To follow, a c...
While Lancashire has long since ensconced itself on the northern culinary map, its administrative centre (a full-fledged city for over 20 years, after all) has awaited its moment in the spotlight. Step forward Aven, which opened in an odd backstreet site in the vicinity of its near-namesake Avenham Park in October 2023.
Under the eagle executive eye of Lancashire-born chef-director Oli Martin (ex-Northcote et al), this city-centre venue is a tiny room (seven tables) done out in impeccable decorative style, with dark olive panelling offsetting brilliant white door frames, glass panels partitioning the space, and menus presented in little envelopes bearing the name of the booking.
Set four-course menus are the mainstay, with an evening taster adding another two courses, as well as a vegetarian alternative. An opening soup of fermented mushrooms is piled with diced Jersey Royals, maitake, peas, braised radishes and bites of smoked eel, under ruffles of tasty chicken skin. To follow, a commendably imaginative fish course offers a sliver of opalescent monkfish in brown butter, topped with soft baby leek and pickled magnolia petal.
The star dish at our meal was a piece of splendid chicken breast with braised and puréed turnips, wild garlic pesto and a strong chicken jus – an object-lesson in the savoury arts. The bemusing presentation of dessert saw its elements marooned in a little cluster at one edge of a huge platter, as though awaiting rescue: fine honeycomb, apple-peel tuile, cultured cream, surprisingly delicate pine parfait. That said, there is enough creative energy here to make Aven one to watch. Slick professional service adds to the gloss, while a modestly proportioned wine list is big on pairings, opening with recommendations by the small glass from £8.
A Platt
18 May 2024
Fabulous unpretentious food. All staff strive to be the best (and their efforts are evident from first entering). A great local experience with seasonal menus, but worth travelling to for its original offerings.
VENUE DETAILS
10 Camden Place
Preston
Lancashire
PR1 3JL
0800 246 5555
OTHER INFORMATION
Family friendly