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Asador 44

Cardiff - Spanish - Restaurant - ££

Stylish Spanish grill with a sophisticated edge

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Good

It might be in a central location, but this glowy, atmospheric love letter to Spain is a world away from the streets outside. While its nearby sibling Bar 44 is all about tapas, the focus here is on the grill, fed by the hefty array of meats that can be seen dry-aging in a fridge set into one wall alongside a walk-in wine cellar. The setting is suave but relaxed, with exposed brickwork offset by dark blue and coffee walls, and intimate spaces created by banquettes and cookbook-crammed shelves. Much of the kitchen is on show and there’s an industrious buzz to the whole operation, helped along by a polished front of house team. The menu highlights Spanish delicacies including jamón Ibérico, Cantabrian anchovies and Gordal olives, but also makes a feature of ex-dairy beef, which provides a full, rich flavour and sustainability credentials. Alongside straight-talking grill options, there are thoughtfully crafted starters such as Duroc pork belly with miso mayo an...

It might be in a central location, but this glowy, atmospheric love letter to Spain is a world away from the streets outside. While its nearby sibling Bar 44 is all about tapas, the focus here is on the grill, fed by the hefty array of meats that can be seen dry-aging in a fridge set into one wall alongside a walk-in wine cellar.

The setting is suave but relaxed, with exposed brickwork offset by dark blue and coffee walls, and intimate spaces created by banquettes and cookbook-crammed shelves. Much of the kitchen is on show and there’s an industrious buzz to the whole operation, helped along by a polished front of house team.

The menu highlights Spanish delicacies including jamón Ibérico, Cantabrian anchovies and Gordal olives, but also makes a feature of ex-dairy beef, which provides a full, rich flavour and sustainability credentials. Alongside straight-talking grill options, there are thoughtfully crafted starters such as Duroc pork belly with miso mayo and cockle vinaigrette or plump, pearly scallops with crunchy jamón and warm, smoky XO sauce.

Mains might bring a fall-apart, melting wodge of ox cheek set on beef rice (imagine a risotto made with rich beef stock) plus a vivacious flourish of salsa verde. From the great-value set lunch, we relished a simple, buttery piece of hake, cooked just-so and adorned with capers and shrimps, accompanied by a bowl of rustic skin-on fries.

Desserts range from ice creams and sorbets to grilled banana with goat's curd dulce de leche – a lighter, fresher take on a classic – topped with baby meringues and crunchy, sesame sugar shards. The wine offering lives up to the promise of the visible cellar, with a broad Spanish mix spanning big names, small family producers and lesser-known regions and grapes.

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J Gardner

2 September 2024

The staff are wonderful and very welcoming when you arrive. Their warmth and hospitality extend into the main service as they were attentive, friendly without being too invasive. The food is excellent. There are quite a few sharing dishes that are cooked over fire, which really adds to the flavour. We had the lamb shoulder which was pull-apart good and succulent, accompanied by fire roasted leeks and beetroot. Would recommend visiting if you are in Cardiff.

VENUE DETAILS

14-15 Quay Street

Cardiff
CF10 1EAGB

029 2002 0039

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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