Art Sushi
Bournemouth, Dorset
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Art Sushi lies behind the Art Deco facade of Westbourne’s 1920s-built Grand Cinema – movies are no longer screened here, but this neighbourhood Japanese restaurant brings its own kind of showmanship to the outskirts of Bournemouth. Inside the little dining room, slender sake bottles populate the shelves and bamboo lampshades cast patterned light over blonde wood tables – although all eyes are drawn to the long bar, where a dozen or so diners can perch and watch chef Kamil Skalczynski deftly wield a blade. Sushi options are divided between gunkan maki, futomaki and California rolls, though our inspection put the focus on artfully assembled nigiri – in particular, wildly moreish glazed unagi kabayaki (grilled eel), and delicate teriyaki tuna with pepper. The craft extends to a smattering of non-sushi options too – Dorset seafood looms large in the shape of, say, flaky soft-shell crab tempura, or you can opt for a dish of sake yellowfin tartare with fukujinzuke relish. Be sure to sample the savoury splendour of the house miso soup, and don't leave without trying the 'matcha mochi' ice cream, served with cherries on a bed of broken biscuit. Wines from £8.50 a glass.
