Andrew Edmunds
Soho, London
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Established in the mid-1980s, at a time when London was just beginning to tire of the artful conceptualism of nouvelle cuisine, Andrew Edmunds brought informal bistro dining back to one of the lesser-known back-streets of north Soho. The Georgian townhouse still feels homey in its ambience, with clothed tables that sport old Burgundy bottles with candles stuck in them. The handwritten menus have moved on a little, now featuring burrata with agretti in romesco, but the pulsing heart of it all is the kind of straightforward food you could cook at home, but which takes on a patina of glam when eaten out. The spring season ushers in buttered asparagus to start, while the mains deal out pork chops in mustard, skate with capers, perhaps something a little more elevated in the shape of roast pigeon on a braise of peas and broad beans. Get your geographical bearings for desserts of Paris-Brest or New York cheesecake. Not the least attraction of the place is a legendary – and legendarily kindly priced – wine collection that boasts reference producers all over the show, including such endangered wine-list species as fine German Rieslings, mature cru Beaujolais, pedigree Californians, and a honour-roll of all the major port shippers.
