Allegra
Stratford, London
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‘It is an absolute delight to have a quality restaurant about 50 yards from Stratford International and Docklands Light Railway stations,’ commented one reporter after visiting this high-end eatery on the seventh floor of the Stratford hotel – the brainchild of the Manhattan Loft Corporation (of Chiltern Firehouse fame). Designed by the Danish team who created superstar Noma in Copenhagen, the dining space is intentionally minimalist but subtle and elegant, rather than the corporate look that infuses the public areas of the rest of the hotel. Muted grey colour schemes, a sweeping stone bar and a Montpelier stone floor set the tone, while retracting glass walls open out onto a terrace overlooking London's skyline. In the kitchen, former Chiltern Firehouse head chef Patrick Powell serves up big-impact, seriously seasonal dishes with a broad international slant and a few nods to classic European cuisine and his Irish heritage. High points from recent meals have included tomato tarte tatin with anchovies, a dish of fried oysters with pickled radish, and whole roasted sea bream with fennel and nasturtium. Others have dined well on plates of Peterhead cod, with broth, turnip, coriander and spring onion as well as aged Gloucester Old Spot pork accompanied by carrots, black pudding and fennel jam. On the sweet side of things, expect boozy confections such as spiced pear and bourbon savarin or chocolate and whiskey délice with Guinness ice cream. Service is prompt, professional and engaging, without being deferential, while a helpful sommelier is on hand to guide diners through the diverse compendium of bottles stored in the glass-clad walk-in wine room.
