10 Tib Lane
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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Tucked away near Albert Square, this tall, narrow Grade II-listed building has a look that crosses Dickensian tenement with Brooklyn backstreet. Open stairs link the small dining areas spread over three cramped, dimly lit levels; only a top-floor room deviates from the norm of dark wood booths, white tiles and distressed surfaces to offer a lighter, more homely air. It could be quite gloomy but a good soundtrack helps get the party started – along with some relaxed Mancunian banter and an eye-catching list of cocktails. Natural wine is an (unidentified) feature of the short French list: a Malbec of notable provenance did the aromatic, dark berry job nicely, although without special distinction. We hesitate to critique the hard-working young staff, constantly scooting up and down stairs, but uneven co-ordination between kitchen and front-of-house (and perhaps insufficient training) did result in longeurs and clunky service. The informality extends to the short menu, where 'small' small plates and 'medium' small plates jostle for space. Promising 'the best produce we can get our hands on', the line-up admirably showcases items that rarely make an appearance at this price: octopus, lamb's sweetbreads, bone marrow, soft-shell crab and oysters, as well as feisty dishes such as steak tartare. Our sea bream ceviche was beautifully crafted: the luscious fish was both delicate and tangy, lubricated with dill oil, given a tart, vinegary edge with lightly pickled onions and bursts of punchy flavour with a dusting of salmon roe. Pork belly partnered by Cidre Breton and mustard sauce was full of savoury flavour, with rich crackling – although the meat itself was surprisingly on the tough side and the sauce had skidded to a halt just before it became aggressively over-reduced. Octopus on a bed of pink fir potatoes, charcoal mayonnaise and pimentón was another meticulously presented arrangement with harmonious flavours, a gentle texture and fragile sweetness. Desserts pack a creamy punch: we luxuriated in a cocoa-dusted, choux cannonball with cherry cream and crème anglaise. Although the cooking has a confident, gimmick-free air, not everything is faultless. Nonetheless, tweaked and polished, 10 Tib Lane can potentially climb the ratings.
