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The Walnut Tree

Monmouthshire, Llanddewi Skirrid - Modern British - Restaurant - £££

Overall Rating: Very Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Very Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Very Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Very Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

A near-constant presence on the UK's restaurant scene since the 1960s, the Walnut Tree's current custodian, Shaun Hill (since 2008), shares a culinary ethos with its founding father, Franco Taruschio. It's all about seasonality, a lack of pretence and letting the ingredients speak for themselves, which was as welcome then as it is now. The setting in an old Welsh inn hasn't changed all that much over the years – the no-frills mentality is maintained in a simple interior enriched with local artworks ('a gallery in a restaurant,' they say). Shaun Hill is still very much a presence but Sandro Strilozzi leads the kitchen these days. Flavours are deeply satisfying and solid classical foundations ensure there's seldom a misstep. Scallops arrive as a first course, not with the same old accompaniments you'll likely find elsewhere, but with lentil and coriander sauce, while twice-baked cheese soufflé is made with Lancashire Bomb and is deliciously embellished with We...

A near-constant presence on the UK's restaurant scene since the 1960s, the Walnut Tree's current custodian, Shaun Hill (since 2008), shares a culinary ethos with its founding father, Franco Taruschio. It's all about seasonality, a lack of pretence and letting the ingredients speak for themselves, which was as welcome then as it is now. The setting in an old Welsh inn hasn't changed all that much over the years – the no-frills mentality is maintained in a simple interior enriched with local artworks ('a gallery in a restaurant,' they say). Shaun Hill is still very much a presence but Sandro Strilozzi leads the kitchen these days. Flavours are deeply satisfying and solid classical foundations ensure there's seldom a misstep. Scallops arrive as a first course, not with the same old accompaniments you'll likely find elsewhere, but with lentil and coriander sauce, while twice-baked cheese soufflé is made with Lancashire Bomb and is deliciously embellished with Welsh black truffle. Rack of lamb comes 'beautifully cooked and served without fuss or ceremony', while another main course of sea bass with romesco sauce, leeks and olives neatly reflects the kitchen's pan-European influences. To conclude, crème brûlée is flavoured with gooseberries (and served with a ginger cookie), and, speaking of European influences, the cheeses are French. The wine list contains some little gems from smaller producers and doesn't ignore what's happening in vineyards in its own backyard. Glasses, carafes and bottles get started at £10, £18 and £36 respectively.     

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R Storey

20 December 2023

Ate scallops in a spiced, lentil sauce, and grouse cooked in the classic way. Simple dishes, perfectly executed. The ambience was uncluttered, good art, tables well spaced. The service warm and efficient.

VENUE DETAILS

Old Ross Road
Llanddewi Skirrid
Monmouthshire
NP7 8AWGB

01873 852797

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OTHER INFORMATION

Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required

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