The Salutation Inn
Topsham, Devon
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Loyal regulars will have noted the post-lockdown change that has come over the Salutation, Topsham high street's Georgian finest. At the front is now the Salt Deli, a wet fish shop supporting the local boats, while the original dining room is now flanked by a glasshouse extension, with an open sun terrace to boot. The limited spaces have been resourcefully used, so that it doesn't feel at all cramped. Tom Williams-Hawkes has ceded control of the kitchen to Luke Heaver, with an apparent brief to offer a simpler menu that aims to cover all bases, from lunch snacks to compendious seafood platters, plus an early-bird prix-fixe supplementing the evening carte. Lyme Bay mackerel escabèche has been hailed by readers and was good at inspection, while mains might offer confit duck, pork tenderloin and shoulder with black pudding and mash, or a classy pairing of turbot and lobster with saffron potatoes in a froth of wasabi and coriander. A simple poached peach for late-summer dessert comes with coconut and a miraculously intense raspberry sorbet. A workable wine list needs a few more reds by the glass at less than 14% alcohol, but does feature both the Brut and Demi-Sec versions of Sussex's Nyetimber sparkler.
