The Inn at Whitewell
Whitewell, Lancashire
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The Inn is a rather grand stone edifice, as befits a constituent part of the Duchy of Lancaster Estate. It has been refreshing weary travellers since the 18th century, so you are in experienced hands. These days, a sensitive touch with modernisation has produced a room that looks over the kitchen garden and the meandering river Hodder. Jamie Cadman is comfortably into his third decade at the stoves, overseeing menus of modern pub food that deliver plenty of flavour. Potted crab is adorned with avocado purée and pickled cucumber to start, while main dishes might offer slow-roast local lamb shoulder in Middle Eastern garb (cracked wheat, chicory, houmous and honey yoghurt), or perhaps the house fish pie, a majestic assemblage of haddock and prawns, flashed under the grill to bubble up its Cheddar topping. The ambitious wine list is arranged by style, with genuinely helpful tasting notes; the by-the-glass selection is rounded out with a small spread of French poshos from the Coravin.
