The Bonnie Badger

In a town where it feels like there are as many greens as gardens, it’s fitting that the Bonnie Badger, Tom Kitchin’s East Lothian culinary bolthole, sits in what was the Golf Inn on Gullane’s main drag. Behind the coach house’s 19th-century frontage lies an extensively modernised hotel, bar, restaurant and garden, with dining divided between the Broch Bar and the more formal surrounds of the Stables. The owners’ description as 'a pub with rooms' feels like a knowing understatement.

Dining in the Broch on a recent visit, a concise menu flitted between traditional pub classics and more modern, creative dishes. Starters were the standouts of the meal: delicate, supple pork gyoza served in a punchy broth, laden with chilli heat and umami, while a plate of Shetland mussels centred around a homemade crumpet was lavished with a fragrant, richly herbal ragoût – the ideal dish to cap a bracing coastal hike. Mains tend toward hearty classics (expect pies, fish, burgers and bangers), while desserts head in much the same, satisfying direction (think ginger crème brûlée or apple crumble with crème anglaise and cinnamon ice cream). 

Drinks cover all bases, from craft ales (courtesy of Stewart Brewing Co on the outskirts of Edinburgh), 'Sassenach' cocktails and malt whiskies to an outstanding wine list founded on a fine choice in two glass sizes and half-litre carafes.