Rocket & Rye

Cowbridge , Glamorgan

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Best Local Restaurant: Wales

This cottagey little high-street charmer manages to be two things at once: the kind of café you’d delightedly pop into for a toasted sandwich or light bite, but also a serious prospect for a proper meal out. Needless to say, the toasties are upmarket versions, and the small-plates menu flexes effortlessly to accommodate snacks, starters and full-on, multi-plate feasts. If you prefer a straight-up main course, there are several of those too, with the emphasis on shining renditions of favourites such as burgers or steak and fries. Standouts from the small plates include the following: perfectly caramelised carrots (tantalisingly balanced between bite and softness) with sweet chilli dressing and a cooling tahini yoghurt; juicy chicken skewers, sticky with BBQ sauce and lightened with kimchi mayo and a sprightly sprinkling of herby salad; and chunks of hake in a crisp, airy batter, teamed with a hefty smoked cod’s roe purée and jewel-like caviar. The Middle White pork Scotch egg – perfectly molten in the middle, with piquant pickles and a gentle horseradish-spiked mayo – is another gem. The stonking Longhorn burger – all melting cheese and crunchy pickles, cased in a fresh, soft, seed-coated bun – is also a winner. It’s easy to over-order here, but if you can, leave space for the moist, molasses-dark sticky toffee pudding with lashings of glossy toffee sauce and a scoop of rich vanilla ice cream. Service is warm and friendly, the setting homely but stylish, pairing exposed stonework with deep-blue walls and flamboyant peacock wallpaper; there’s a bright conservatory at the back and, beyond that, a decent outdoor dining terrace. The wine list avoids being predictable, offering some interesting choices that won’t break the bank.