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Pique-Nique

London, Bermondsey - French - Restaurant - £££

Homely French cooking in an endearingly quirky setting

Overall Rating: Good

Uniqueness:Does the establishment stand out in the context of the local area? Good

Deliciousness:How delicious is the food? Good

Warmth:How warm is the service and the hospitality in general? Good

Strength of recommendation:How enthusiastically and widely would you recommend the establishment? Very Good

The rear of a children’s playground may be an unusual spot for a restaurant, but the unique setting is indicative of Pique-Nique’s distinctive charms. This offshoot of the equally characterful Casse-Croûte (just around the corner) is more secluded from the bustle of Bermondsey Street and feels like a destination in its own right. Adorned with vintage French posters, Tudor-style timberwork and festive fairy lights, the dining room evokes the relaxed cheerfulness of a tavern but is still special enough for an occasion. The chalkboard menu is explicitly geared for sharing which fosters a lively atmosphere as well as generating a regularly full house. To begin, a salad of crisp, garden-fresh lettuce, buttery Jersey Royals and deep-pink slices of salted ox heart, dressed in a pleasantly tangy Roquefort sauce and rounded with plenty of green herbs, was faultless in every respect. We can also recommend the lobster, served with chard leaves as big as fans and bathed in a spi...

The rear of a children’s playground may be an unusual spot for a restaurant, but the unique setting is indicative of Pique-Nique’s distinctive charms. This offshoot of the equally characterful Casse-Croûte (just around the corner) is more secluded from the bustle of Bermondsey Street and feels like a destination in its own right. Adorned with vintage French posters, Tudor-style timberwork and festive fairy lights, the dining room evokes the relaxed cheerfulness of a tavern but is still special enough for an occasion.

The chalkboard menu is explicitly geared for sharing which fosters a lively atmosphere as well as generating a regularly full house. To begin, a salad of crisp, garden-fresh lettuce, buttery Jersey Royals and deep-pink slices of salted ox heart, dressed in a pleasantly tangy Roquefort sauce and rounded with plenty of green herbs, was faultless in every respect. We can also recommend the lobster, served with chard leaves as big as fans and bathed in a spirited, ultra-savoury bisque cut with tarragon.

Elsewhere, a centrepiece dish of veal en croûte was faultlessly executed and full of flavour – a generous log of golden, ornately patterned flaky pastry sliced at the table to reveal gently blushing meat rolled in an autumnal, earthy blend of pine nuts and mushrooms. The cooking has a ‘wonderful home-cooked feel’, notes one fan, although our dessert was enjoyable rather than memorable: the blueberry beignets arrived tepid, bursting with a tart, fruity filling that overpowered the creamy accompanying pistachio ice cream.

Pique-Nique’s admirable food is complemented by a comprehensive drinks list covering all bases, from good-value wines to smooth aperitifs. Service was very friendly but not always as confident as the cooking, although this was overshadowed by the delightful flavours and joyful ambience that defined our visit.

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VENUE DETAILS

Tanner Street Park
Bermondsey
SE1 3LDGB

020 7403 9549

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OTHER INFORMATION

Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Credit card required

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