Lunya

Liverpool, Merseyside

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The Kinsellas' Catalan tapas joint and deli has been one of the city's roaring success stories of the past few years, offering a taste of sun-splashed Spanish tradition beamed into the Liverpool One shopping complex. A large red map dominates one wall for geographical orientation, while views into the kitchen are an education in themselves, assuming you haven't opted to sit out in the bright Merseyside sunshine. Among the meat offerings, Ibérico Bellota from acorn-fed pigs, sobrasada with whipped goat's cheese and orange blossom honey, and the almost indecently rich morcilla, redolent of cumin and served with trinxat (Catalan bubble and queak) in piquillo pepper sauce, are not to be missed. The boquerones are from Cantabria's finest, Pujadó Solano, while the beer-battered calamari come from Cornwall via Birkenhead. A huge choice of vegetable accompaniments and seductive snacks add depth and fun, and there are banquet variations for the whole table to get stuck into. Round it off with vanilla ice cream served with turrón and pelted with PX-drenched raisins. Gins are almost as much of a speciality as sherries, and there is a regionally diverse slate of Spanish wines in two glass sizes from £5.75.