Hispi
Manchester, Greater Manchester
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Gary Usher's burgeoning bistro empire includes this Didsbury venue, where small clothless tables and a wall of exposed brick serve notice that there is to be no standing on ceremony. Lunchtime and weekday early evenings offer tremendous value for a well-constructed spread that might open with black olive and tomato arancini in salsa verde, and proceed via rigatoni with a hearty bolognese-style ragù under lemon and thyme pangrattato to walnut praline ice cream in espresso syrup. The complimentary home-baked focaccia is 'a great touch' too. Big flavours are also in evidence throughout the main menu: gin-cured sea trout is brightened up with pomelo and endive salad, while the fatty richness of confit duck leg is offset by port-braised red cabbage, parsnip purée and pickled walnut, with a prune-laced sausage to boot. Children's menus are virtually as nourishing as their grown-up counterparts, and the whole family can come together over chocolate 'oblivion' with mint choc-chip ice cream – although the prospect of an Eccles cake, made with dry-aged beef fat and served the traditional way alongside a wedge of Appleby's Cheshire cheese, is hard to resist. Wine nights are a feature, when a five-course menu is accompanied by thoughtfully chosen pairings.
