Local guides

Where to eat in Siena: five addresses not to miss
Published 15 October 2024

Often overlooked by its Tuscan neighbour, Siena has plenty to draw the eye and pique the appetite if the touristy frenzy of Florence lacks appeal. Publisher of the Guide and part-time local, Adam Hyman, shares the top spots on his list.

While there’s no denying that Firenze has some of the best culture, restaurants and shopping in Europe, and deserves a couple of days in its own right, Siena still boasts a number of excellent restaurants for day-trippers or those staying the night and is a lot less frantic than Florence during the summer. The city is probably most famous for its Palio — a horse race that takes place in the Piazza del Campo on 2nd July and 16th August each year between 17 different ‘contrade’ of the city. While everyone should visit the Piazza del Campo for a Campari spritz in the early evening, you should avoid eating there.

Enoteca I Terzi
The Obamas ate here when they visited Siena and while their visit definitely helped Enoteca i Terzi on the map, this restaurant continues to be one of my favourite places to eat in Siena. The menu is made up of Tuscan classics and some less-so but you can expect great pasta and meat dishes. Their wine list is chunky with a huge range of Tuscan wines at very reasonable prices. In the summer they have an outdoor terrace too.

Roast beef at Enoteca I Terzi



Osteria il Grattacielo

Translating as ‘the skyscraper’, you’ll soon realise the owners have a sense of humour when you step inside this tiny hole in the wall located off the main shopping street in Siena. In the winter it would be easily missed but during the summer a couple of large communal tables make it easier to find. Expect to find office workers having lunch during the day over a carafe of wine. There are a handful of fresh pastas that change daily and a range of cold dishes that you can choose — think cured meats, Tuscan cheeses and panzanella salad. Don’t expect to pay more than 20 euro per person.

Translating as ‘the skyscraper’, you’ll soon realise the owners have a sense of humour when you step inside this tiny hole in the wall located off the main shopping street in Siena.

Osteria Da Divo
While this restaurant could feel ever-so-slightly themed, it’s worth a visit to say you’ve had dinner in an Etruscan tomb. The restaurant is split into three levels, each one getting older and older. Their menu throughout the year likes to showcase truffles and while the food may come across a bit fine dining at times, it still remains one of the most sought after tables in Siena.


Osteria Le Logge

Often regarded as one of the best restaurants in Siena, Osteria Le Logge takes an innovative approach to Tuscan food thanks to it being a place where a lot of Japanese chefs stage during their time in Italy. Think vitello tonnato with a ponzu sauce. The outdoor terrace in the summer is tucked just off the Piazza del Campo and be sure to order a bottle of the family’s own label Gianni Brunelli wine.

Often regarded as one of the best restaurants in Siena, Osteria Le Logge takes an innovative approach to Tuscan food.

Nannini

One of the most famous names in Siena, Nannini has been going for over one hundred years and is a great spot to stop for a mid morning coffee and ‘bombolone’ (Sienese doughnut with cream) or for a spritz. Expect classic Italian style service where you need to order and pay first before waiting for your coffee.